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Description  |
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TECHNICAL FIELD
This invention relates to compositions for providing nongreasy, cosmetic
moisturizing, conditioning and protective barrier effects on skin and on
hair, and to a method for producing these effects.
BACKGROUND ART
Cosmetic conditioner compositions for moisturizing and providing protective
barrier films on the skin are known in the art and are in daily use by
consumers. Typically commercially available compositions are comprised of
oil-in-water emulsions that are easily rinsed from the skin by soap and
water and frequently by water alone. Therefore, the consumer must apply
such compositions frequently in order to maintain any semblance of lasting
moisturizing and conditioning effects.
Some attempts have been made to provide greater conditioning effects by
means of water-in-oil type emulsions but these compositions leave a
slippery, oily feel on the skin that is usually interpreted as "greasy" to
the consumer. This greasy effect is cosmetically undesirable to the touch
in a skin product and, in a hair product, it imparts a soiled appearance
to the hair, frequently making the hair limp.
One of the main reasons consumers use moisturizing, conditioning
compositions that provide protective barriers on the skin and hair is to
protect against chemical and environmental hazards to which their bodies
are exposed in the home and in the workplace. Compositions that are too
easily rinsed from the skin during the normal course of the day do not
provide continuous protection. Products that are too greasy are
unattractive to the user, no matter how effective they may be, because
they are cosmetically and aesthetically unappealing.
A desirable product, therefore, would provide a non-greasy, cosmetically
pleasing, moisturizing, conditioning effect and yet provide a protective
barrier, be easy to apply and resist removal when the skin or hair is
rinsed with water.
BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
In one aspect of this invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition
for use on skin and hair comprising an oil-in-water emulsion including
about 70 to about 90 weight percent water, about 5 to about 25 weight
percent water-insoluble, unctuous, oleaginous material, about 0.5 to about
7 weight percent water-dispersible emulsifying agent, about 0.05 to about
3.0 weight percent water-dispersible, non-toxic polyvalent metal salt
having a cation selected from the group consisting of aluminum (III),
cerium (III), iron (III), zirconium (IV), aluminum zirconium coordination
complexes and mixtures thereof, and sufficient acid or alkali to provide a
pH value of about 1.5 to about 7.5. The water-dispersible emulsifying
agents used in the cosmetic composition are materials which do not form
true solutions in water and are selected from the group consisting of
non-ionic and cationic emulsifiers, and mixtures thereof. The emulsifying
agent may include a water-soluble non-ionic material. The cosmetic
composition is adapted to invert to a water-in-oil type emulsion at the
skin or hair surface when it is rubbed into the skin or the hair without
producing the unappealing greasy effect normally associated with
water-in-oil type emulsion products. Excess water, beyond what is held in
the surface water-in-oil emulsion, forms a separate outer layer which is
rinsed, rubbed or evaporated away, or which may be towel blotted.
A cosmetic composition of this invention provides a long-lasting
cosmetically aesthetic, moisturizing and conditioning effect, as well as a
skin protective barrier coating. A composition of this invention can be
applied by means of a rinse-on method comprising the steps of rubbing the
composition into wet skin or wet hair and then rinsing the treated skin or
hair with water. In a rinse-on method the composition deposits a
non-greasy coating on the skin or hair that provides a water-resistant
barrier film. Heretofore this could be achieved only with heavy greasy
compositions which were cosmetically unappealing. Alternatively, a
cosmetic composition of this invention can be rubbed directly into dry
skin or dry hair in the usual manner to deposit a barrier coating against
water and water-soluble materials.
A distinct advantage of the compositions of this invention is that a
discernible amount of conditioning and emollient material deposits on the
skin in a single application on the oil-in-water emulsion. The level of
cosmetic effects produced would normally require multiple or repeated
applications of this type of emulsion. Oil-in-water emulsion compositions
are usually preferred because they are easily prepared, provide a cooling
effect on the skin and are generally more appealing to the consumer. Thus,
the benefit of an oil-in-water emulsion system is maintained by the
cosmetic compositions of this invention while providing the conditioning
benefits normally associated only with water-in-oil type emulsions.
The barrier film deposited on the skin is particularly beneficial for
protecting it from skin irritants, such as dusts, soils, and the like
present in the home and workplace environment.
The inversion of the compositions from oil-in-water to water-in-oil
emulsions at the hair surface provides an added benefit for conditioning
dry hair. Hair can become dry looking and straw-like as a result of being
frequently treated with chemical products, such as waving and dyeing. As
currently practiced in the art, attempts to condition such hair are made
by means of well-known "hot oil" treatment. Conventional hot oil
treatments use heavy oils that are difficult to remove and cosmetically
unpleasant. The compositions of this invention provide a cosmetically
elegant product for use in place of the oils to achieve the same effect.
Another advantage is that oil-soluble materials that are cosmetically or
therapeutically desirable, such as sunscreens, fungicides,
antibactericides, keratolytic agents, vitamins, fragrances, and pigments,
can be deposited on the skin or hair in a water-insoluble coating. This
advantage is particularly beneficial because it can be achieved even when
the skin or hair is wet.
Still further benefits and advantages of the present invention will become
apparent to those skilled in the art from the detailed description of the
invention, the examples and the claims which follow.
DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
A cosmetic composition is disclosed comprising an oil-in-water (o/w)
emulsion that is adapted to invert to a water-in-oil emulsion (w/o) when
the composition is rubbed into skin and hair to provide a moisturizing,
conditioning protective barrier coating on the skin and hair. The
composition is as easy to prepare as a conventional o/w emulsion. It
provides a level of moisturizing, conditioning and protective barrier
effects normally associated with w/o type emulsions, while overcoming the
normally objectionable greasy feel associated with the latter. This novel
conditioning cosmetic composition comprises:
(a) from about 70 to about 90 weight percent water;
(b) from about 5 to about 25 weight percent water-insoluble, unctuous
oleaginous material;
(c) about 0.1 to about 7 weight percent water-dispersible emulsifying agent
selected from the group consisting of non-ionic and cationic emulsifiers,
and mixtures thereof. A water-soluble non-ionic emulsifier may be included
having an HLB value greater than 8, as determined by the well-known
Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance (HLB) system;
(d) from about 0.05 to about 3.0 weight percent water-dispersible,
non-toxic polyvalent metal salt having a cation selected from the group
consisting of aluminum (III), cerium (III), iron (III), zirconium (IV),
aluminum zirconium coordination complexes and mixtures thereof; and
(e) sufficient acid or alkali to provide a pH value of about 1.5 to about
7.
The unusual conditioning effects, especially rinse-off conditioning,
produced by the compositions are attributed to the presence of the
water-dispersible polyvalent metal salt in the emulsion. Particularly
preferred polyvalent salts are:
(a) aluminum chloride hexahydrate present in amounts of from 0.05 to about
3 weight percent in a composition having a pH value in a range of from
about 1.5 to about 5;
(b) complex basic aluminum chloride loosely hydrated with about 2.5 moles
of water, commonly referred to as aluminum chlorohydrate, present in
amounts of from 0.06 to about 2.5 weight percent in a composition having a
pH value in a range of from 4.2 to about 5.6:
(c) a loosely hydrated coordination complex of aluminum zirconium
chlorohydrate, including the tri-, tetra- and pentachlorohydrate, and
glycine complexes thereof, present in amounts of from 0.51 to about 1.3
weight percent in a composition having a pH value in a range of from 4.3
to about 7.0;
(d) zirconium (IV) oxychloride octahydrate present in amounts of 0.13 to
about 1.3 weight percent in a composition having a pH value in a range of
from 1.6 to about 5.6;
(e) iron (III) nitrate nonahydrate present in amounts of from 0.17 to about
1.7 weight percent in a composition having a pH value in a range of from
1.8 to about 6.5; and
(f) cerium (III) nitrate hexahydrate present in amounts of from 0.5 to
about 4.0 weight percent in a composition having a pH value in a range of
from 2.3 to about 7.5.
Exemplary aluminum, zirconium and aluminum zirconium complexes are
described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd Edition,
published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Inc.,
incorporated herein by reference. Particularly preferred materials are
commercially available under the trademarks, Rezal, Chlorhydrol, and
Rehydrol sold by the Reheis Chemical Company.
The cosmetic compositions of this invention are prepared by generally known
techniques for preparing o/w emulsions described below in Example 2.
Briefly described, the general procedure is as follows; the aqueous phase
(I) is heated to about 80 degrees C. (about 175 degrees F.) in a separate
vessel from the oil phase (II). The oil phase comprises the oleaginous
materials, emulsifiers, oil-soluble preservatives, and any additional oil
soluble or oil dispersible cosmetic ingredients. The oil phase is heated
to about 82 degrees C. (about 180 degrees F.), and added slowly with
agitation to the heated water phase (I). After continued agitation and
maintenance of the temperature at about 80 degrees C. (about 175 degrees
F.), the composition is cooled to about 49 degrees C. (about 120 degrees
F.). At this temperature the fragrance phase (III) is added. The fragrance
phase may include additional preservative, fragrance emulsifiers and
heat-sensitive ingredients if needed. At this temperature the polyvalent
salt phase (IV) comprising a water solution of a polyvalent salt is also
added to the batch. The emulsion is mixed further and an acid or alkaline
phase (V) comprising an aqueous solution of acid or alkaline caustic
material is added to adjust the pH value of the composition. The emulsion
is mixed further and cooled to about 32 degrees C. (about 90 degrees F.)
and stored in containers until ready for use.
It is to be understood that the term "conditioning" as used herein is
intended to include moisturizing and protective barrier coating effects by
reference. It is also to be understood that the terms "composition" and
"cosmetic composition" will be used interchangeably with the term
"emulsion" to denote an o/w emulsion that inverts to a w/o emulsion at the
hair and skin surface when it is subjected to frictional shear by being
rubbed onto and into the skin or hair. It is further to be understood that
the terms "conditioned skin" or "conditioned hair" denotes skin or hair
that has been treated with a composition of this invention by means of the
rinse-on or rub-on methods described below.
The oleaginous material is selected from known cosmetic unctuous materials.
It is to be understood that the terms "oleaginous" and "unctuous" includes
materials that are, themselves, water-insoluble and require emulsifying
agents to disperse them in water but which may, themselves, function as
emulsifying agents. Suitable materials are illustrated, without limitation
by mineral hydrocarbon waxes, greases and oils, animal fats and greases,
plant waxes, saturated and unsaturated vegetable, animal and plant oils,
hydrogenated and unhydrogenated unsaturated oils, waxes and fats, cosmetic
silicone fluids such as a linear polysiloxane polymer, an olefinic ester
of saturated fatty acid, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred
oleaginous materials include petrolatum, liquid paraffin, lanolin, lard,
jojoba oil, corn oil, peanut oil, olive oil, mink oil, soybean oil,
hydrogenated triglycerides, such as Crisco, sold under that trademark by
the Procter & Gamble Company, beeswax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, tallow,
isopropyl myristate, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, mineral oil, glyceryl
stearate, and the like. While the oleaginous materials may be present at
about 5 to about 25 weight percent, persons skilled in the art will
appreciate that the actual amount used in a product is determined by the
desired product consistency and level of conditioning effect.
A particular advantage of this invention is that the o/w emulsions can be
prepared using small amounts of emulsifiers. For example, emulsions can be
prepared with less than 5 weight percent emulsifying agent. The
compositions are preferably prepared using water-dispersible non-ionic and
cationic emulsifiers, and mixtures thereof. The selection of the
emulsifier adapts the o/w emulsion for inversion to a w/o emulsion under
frictional pressure when it is rubbed into skin and hair, preferably onto
wet skin and wet hair.
Commercially available cationic emulsifiers are well known in the art.
Suitable cationic emulsifiers may be illustrated without limitation by
quaternized ammonium bromide and chloride salts and mixtures thereof. A
preferred cationic emulsifier is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride.
Preferably, the concentration of the cationic emulsifier is about 1 to
about 2 weight percent, more preferably about 1.5 to 1.8 weight percent.
Cationic emulsifiers are believed to augment the overall conditioning
effects because of their well known substantivity to keratin substrates
such as skin and hair.
Non-ionic emulsifiers are also well known in the art and are commercially
available. The type of non-ionic emulsifier selected depends on the
hydrophile-lipophile balance (HLB) needed to emulsify the oleaginous
material. The method of calculating the HLB value is well known in the
art. The HLB of the non-ionic emulsifying agent in the emulsion is
selected to fall in a range of about 6 to about 16, preferably between
about 6 to about 10. Water-dispersible emulsifying agents denote materials
that produce a milky dispersion in water at an HLB value of from about 6
to about 10. The amount of water-dispersible non-ionic emulsifying agent
is about 0.5 to about 7 weight percent selected from the group consisting
of lipophilic non-ionic and cationic emulsifiers having an individual HLB
value of about 4 to about 6. The emulsifying agent may include a highly
water-soluble non-ionic material that is one having an individual HLB
value greater than 8. However, its concentration is preferably kept to a
level of about 0.1 to about 0.5 weight percent. Higher concentrations of
highly water-soluble non-ionic emulsifiers, however, may be used in
combination with water-dispersible non-ionic emulsifiers, so long as the
calculated HLB value of the emulsifying agent in the emulsion falls in the
range of from about 6 to about 10.
Non-ionic emulsifiers may be exemplified, without limitation, by
polyoxyethylene ethers of fatty alcohols such as polyoxyethylene (20)
cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene (2) oleyl ether, polyoxyethylene (15)
nonylphenyl ether and the like, sorbitan stearate, glyceryl stearate,
C.sub.12 -C.sub.18 fatty alchohols, esters and ethers thereof.
Conventional water-soluble anionic wetting agents such as sodium lauryl
sulfate, and water-soluble betaine-type amphoteric wetting agents are not
included in the compositions of this invention because they have been
found to interfere with the conditioning effects otherwise obtained.
Other ingredients may also be included in the compositions selected from
among known materials for their conventionally employed purposes. These
include fragrances, coloring agents, preservatives, and thickeners.
Persons skilled in the art will appreciate that the compositions of this
invention can be rubbed onto dry skin and dry hair and allowed to dry in
the usual manner. What is surprising, however, is that a conditioning,
moisturizing and protective barrier coating can be deposited on the skin
from a rinse-on application, as described below. Particularly surprising
is that the compositions invert from oil-in-water emulsions to
water-in-oil emulsions at the skin or hair surface when they are rubbed
into wet skin and wet hair. The outer layer of excess moistures dries
rapidly on the skin and the inverted emulsion forms a coating which is a
barrier to water and water-soluble materials. The coating is discernible
to the touch but is non-greasy in most applications. However, if a coating
with a greasy feel is desired, the compositions of the invention may be
formulated to produce such a feel, as described below.
The mechanism by which the compositions of this invention invert to form
water-in-oil emulsions is not understood.
The composition of this invention provides a unique means for depositing
and adhering therapeutically active skin care material to the skin, such
as fungicides for athlete's foot, such as zinc undecylenate and
undecylenic acid, antimicrobials for acne, keratolytic agents for foot
callouses and corns, anti-dandruff agents and the like. Such products are
usually either applied to carefully dried skin or are rinsed away with
water. The compositions of this invention can be applied to the skin and
rinsed on during the normal course of the user's ablutions. This benefit
is particularly valuable for maintaining fungicidal athlete's foot agents
in contact with the affected area, without resorting to using greasy
ointments that stain the stockings or to vehicles that are washed away by
perspiration or water during the course of the day. Further, the known
astringent properties of some of the aluminum and zirconium salts may
provide an added benefit of inhibiting perspiration in combination with
the antifungal activity.
The compositions of this invention also provide a novel vehicle for
applying bath oils and after-bath products, such as talcum powder. This
benefit is particularly useful as a means of depositing bath oil
materials, such as isopropyl myristate, on the skin during the course of a
shower bath. Likewise, talcum powder may be included in the composition to
deposit a bath powder or after-shave powder finish on the skin. Similarly,
pigments may be included in a composition of this invention to provide
visually opaque coatings on the skin that are not washed away by normal
perspiration or water. These coatings are particularly useful as opaque
sunblocks for the skin and as opaque makeup compositions for hiding
blemishes on the face and body or as opaque makeup for the legs.
The compositions of this invention can be prepared in the form of lotions
and creams.
If it is desired to produce a film with an oily or greasy feel, comparable
in hair dessing to the application of a pomade, such an effect may be
obtained by appropriate selection of the nature and amount of the
water-insoluble, unctuous oleaginous material. For an oily film, the
unctuous oleaginous material should be present at a level of at least 15
weight percent and at least 50% of the unctuous oleaginous materials
should be a normally solid material, such as petrolatum.
This invention is further illustrated in the following examples, which are
not intended to be limiting.
BEST MODES FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
A. Methods of Application For Conditioning
In the examples described below, rinse-on and rub-on procedures, using a
composition of this invention, are employed to provide cosmetically
elegant moisturizing, conditioning, protective barrier effects on skin and
on hair. The general methods for employing these rinse-on and rub-on
procedures are described immediately herebelow.
1. Rinse-on Method A
Wash the skin area or hair to be conditioned with a commercially available
liquid detergent containing synthetic surfactants, and commonly referred
to as a "liquid soap". The washing procedure consists of wetting of the
skin or hair with water, applying the liquid soap and washing the skin or
hair in the usual manner. The liquid soap is rinsed from the skin or hair
with water.
For skin conditioning, the still-wet skin is treated with the composition
by rubbing it onto the wet skin and spreading it over the entire area. The
skin is then thoroughly rinsed with water and patted lightly with a towel
to dry.
For hair conditioning, the wet hair is lightly towel blotted to remove
excess water and the composition is rubbed onto the wet hair and
distributed thoroughly to coat the fibers. The hair is then rinsed with
water and dried in the usual manner.
2. Rinse-on Method B
The same washing and conditioning procedure as in Rinse-On Method A is
followed, except that Ivory soap, sold under this trademark by the Procter
& Gamble Company, is used in place of the liquid soap.
For both Rinse-on Method A and Rinse-on Method B, the water used may be
soft water, including distilled or deionized water, or hard water.
3. Rub-on Method
A conditioner composition is rubbed onto dry skin or dry hair and
thoroughly rubbed into the skin or hair to provide a barrier coating.
Conditioning and moisturizing effects are evaluated by feeling the treated
skin area for smooothness discernible to the touch. Evaluation of
protective barrier effects are described in Examples 5 and 14.
B. Glossary of Materials
In the following examples certain components of the composition are
referred to, for easy reference and convenience, by their commercial
trademark or CTFA name as provided immediately herebelow.
(a) Silicone 200 Fluid, trademark of Dow Corning Corporation is a mixture
of fully methylated linear siloxane polymers end blocked with
trimethylsiloxy units. CTFA name: Dimethicone.
(b) Lanolin AAA is deodorized anhydrous lanolin U.S.P., CTFA name: Lanolin.
(c) Stearic acid xxx is a triple pressed grade of stearic acid.
(d) Lipocol C-20, trademark of Lipo Chemicals, Inc. for polyoxyethylene
(20) cetyl ether. CTFA name: Ceteth-20. HLB value about 15 to 17.
(e) Cetrimonium Chloride: CTFA name for Cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride.
(f) Amphosol CA, trademark of Stepan Chemical for CTFA name:
Cocamidopropylbetaine.
(g) Span 60, trademark of ICI United States, Inc. for CTFA name: Sorbitan
stearate. HLB value about 4 to 6.
(h) Brij 92, trademark of ICI United States, Inc. for polyoxythylene (2)
oleyl ether CTFA name: Oleth-2. HLB value about 4-6.
(i) Igepal CO-730, trademark of GAF Corporation for polyoxyethylene (15)
nonyl phenyl ether. CTFA name: nonoxynol 15. HLB value about 13.
C. Preparation of Emulsions
The general procedure for preparing the emulsions consists of the steps of
(1) heating the components of Phase I in a mixing vessel containing a high
speed mixer to a temperature of about 80 degrees C. (175 degrees F.); (2)
combining, in a separate vessel, the components of Phase II with stirring
and heating to about 82 degrees C. (180 degrees F.); (3) adding Phase II
to Phase I with good agitation; (4) maintaining agitation for 30 minutes
while holding the batch temperature at about 80 degrees C. (175 degrees
F.); (5) cooling the batch slowly to about 49 degrees C. (120 degrees F.);
(6) adding the components of Phase III to the batch at 49 degrees C. (120
degrees F.); adding the premixed components of Phase IV, mixing well; (8)
adding the premixed components of Phase V; (9) cooling the batch to about
32 degrees C. (90 degrees F.); and packaging the composition in bottles.
It is to be understood that the following compositions are prepared as
described.
EXAMPLE 1
Comparison of Emulsifiers in An Aluminum-Containing Rinse-on Cosmetic
Composition
This example shows the effectiveness of water-dispersible non-ionic and
cationic materials as emulsifying agents in rinse-on compositions in
contrast to water-soluble anionic and amphoteric wetting agents.
The components of exemplary compositions containing aluminum salt are shown
in Formulations A, B, C and D below. Each emulsion is adjusted to about pH
4.0 with sodium hydroxide. The non-ionic emulsifier in Formula A is
LIPOCOL C-20; the cationic emulsifier in Formula B is cetrimonium
chloride; the anionic emulsifier in Formula C is sodium lauryl sulfate and
the amphoteric emulsifier in Formula D is Amphosol CA as previously
identified in the glossary.
______________________________________
Weight Percent in Formula
Component A B C D
______________________________________
Phase I:
Deionized water
75.140 73.600 73.600 74.050
Phase II:
Petrolatum 9.850 9.850 9.850 9.850
Mineral oil, 65/75
7.450 7.450 7.450 7.450
visc.
Methylparaben
0.150 0.150 0.150 0.150
Silicone 200 Fluid,
0.650 0.650 0.650 0.650
350 cps
Propylparaben
0.100 0.100 0.100 0.100
Glycerylstearate
2.600 2.600 2.600 2.600
Lanolin AAA 0.650 0.650 0.650 0.650
Cetyl alcohol
1.950 1.950 1.950 1.950
Stearic acid XXX
0.125 0.125 0.125 0.125
Non-ionic emulsifier
0.180
Cationic emulsifier 1.720
Anionic emulsifier 1.720
Amphoteric emulsifier 1.700
Phase III:
Fragrance 0.200 0.200 0.200 0.200
1,3 Dimethylol-5,5-
0.250 0.250 0.250 0.250
dimethyl hydantoin
Phase IV:
Aluminum chloride
0.300 0.300 0.300 0.300
hexahydrate
Deionized water
0.300 0.300 0.300 0.300
Phase V:
Sodium hydroxide
0.105 0.105 0.105 0.125
(50% in water)
100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00
pH 3.93 4.00 4.00 4.00
Appearance of
Homogeneous Separate into
Emulsion on two layers
Standing
______________________________________
In separate tests, using 4 female volunteers, one hand is treated with one
of the compositions by Rinse-on Method A and the other hand is treated
with the same composition by Rinse-On Method B of Example 1. Each
volunteer is treated with a different composition. Compositions A and B
provide a discernible conditioning, moisturizing effect on the skin.
Compositions C and D produce no discernible conditioning, moisturizing
effects.
The rinsed-on conditioning on the skin of the hands is nongreasy to the
touch even though the emulsion inverts from an oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion
to a water-in-oil (w/o) emulsion. Inversion is demonstrated after treating
the skin by Rinse-on Method A by scraping the coating from the wet skin
with a glass microscopic slide. A portion of the scraped coating from the
microscopic slide is then immersed in water and another portion is
immersed in light mineral oil. The scraping disperses in the oil but not
in the water.
EXAMPLE 2
Effect of pH on Rinse-on Conditioning of An Aluminum-containing Composition
The following series of six separate emulsions (A, B, C, D, E, F) is
prepared using the procedure of Example 1, except that each completed
composition varies in pH value over a range of from 3.2 to 7.0 by
adjusting the amounts of sodium hydroxide in Phase V and the water in
Phase I accordingly as needed.
______________________________________
Weight Percent
Component in Formula
______________________________________
Phase I:
Deionized water to 100 g
q.s.
Phase II:
Petrolatum 9.850
Mineral oil, 65/75 visc.
7.450
Methylparaben 0.150
Silicone 200 Fluid, 350 cps
0.650
Propylparaben 0.100
Glycerylstearate 2.600
Lanolin AAA 0.650
Cetyl alcohol 1.950
Lipocol C-20 0.180
Phase III:
Fragrance 0.200
1,3 Dimethylol-5,5-dimethyl
0.250
Hydantoin
Phase IV:
Aluminum chloride hexahydrate
0.300
Deionized water 0.300
Phase V:
Sodium hydroxide (50% in water)
q.s.
to pH of formula A, B, C, D,
E, F, shown below.
______________________________________
The effect of pH value on discernible conditioning effects of each
aluminum-containing emulsion is shown below as evaluated by Rinse-on
Method A, using soft water, and Rinse-on Method B, using hard water, on
the skin of the hands.
______________________________________
Amount of Discernible Conditioning
Coating on Skin of Hands
Emulsion
pH Rinse-On Method A
Rinse-On Method B
______________________________________
A 3.2 heavy heavy
B 4.0 heavy heavy
C 4.5 heavy heavy
D 5.0 very light light
E 6.0 none.sup.(a) very light
F 7.0 none.sup.(a) very light
______________________________________
.sup.(a) No coating detected to the touch but the skin repels water.
The data show that the amount of discernible coating depositing on the skin
from Emulsion A is greatest between about pH 3.2 and 5.0. Although the
amount of physically discernible coating lessens as the pH value of the
Emulsion increases to pH 7.0, some protective barrier effect is detectable
as an increase in the skin's water repellancy even from Rinse-on Method A,
using soft water.
EXAMPLE 3
Rinse-on Sunscreen
The Emulsion B of Example 2 is prepared except that 3% sunscreen material
is included in Phase II, and the water content of Phase I is reduced
accordingly. The sunscreen is 2-ethoxyethyl-p-methoxycinnamate sold under
the trademark Giv-Tan F by Givaudan Corporation. CTFA name: Cinoxate.
The emulsion deposits a water-repellant conditioning coating on the skin of
the hands when it is applied by Rinse-on Method A with soft water and by
Rinse-on Method B with hard water.
EXAMPLE 4
Evauation of Skin Protective Barrier Coating of Aluminum-containing
Conditioner
This example demonstrates the rinse-on protective barrier coating and
conditioning effect on skin from a cosmetic emulsion (A) containing an
aluminum salt at pH 4.0 by means of a fluorescent technique in accordance
with the method described by M. E. Stolar, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chem. 17,
607-621 (1966). The vitamin A palmitate component is also a known
fluorescent indicator. For comparison, a counterpart emulsions (B) and (C)
is prepared without aluminum salt at near neutral pH and at pH 4.0
respectively.
______________________________________
Weight Percent in Formula
Component A B C
______________________________________
Phase I:
Deionized water
73.278 74.720 74.650
Phase II:
Petrolatum 11.850 11.850 11.850
Mineral oil, 65/75 visc.
5.450 5.450 5.450
Methylparaben 0.150 0.150 0.150
Silicone 200 Fluid, 350 cps
0.650 0.650 0.650
Propylparaben 0.100 0.100 0.100
Glycerylstearate
2.600 2.600 2.600
Cetyl alcohol 1.950 1.950 1.950
Lanolin AAA 0.650 0.650 0.650
Vitamin A palmitate
1.000 1.000 1.000
Stearic acid XXX
0.250 0.250 0.250
Lipocol C-20 0.180 0.180 0.180
Phase III:
Fragrance 0.200 0.200 0.200
1,3 Dimethylol-5,5-
0.250 0.250 0.250
dimethyl hydantoin
Phase IV:
Aluminum chloride hexahydrate
0.600 -- --
Deionized water
0.600 -- --
Phase V:
Citric acid (50% in water)
-- -- 0.070
Sodium hydroxide
0.242
(50% in water)
100.000 100.000 100.000
pH 3.93 7.20 4.00
______________________________________
When the skin of hands is treated with Emulsion A by Rinse-on Method A and
by Rinse-on method, B a coating deposits on the skin that fluoresces when
the skin is viewed under an ultra-violet light source. When the skin of
the hands is similarly treated with either Emulsion B or C no fluorescence
is observed.
EXAMPLE 5
Rinse-on Hair Conditioner
This example shows the conditioning effect of a hair conditioner containing
an aluminum salt by means of a colorimetric test. The following emulsion
(A) is prepared with aluminum salt and a counterpart emulsion (B), without
aluminum salt, is also prepared for comparison.
______________________________________
Weight Percent
in Formula
Component A B
______________________________________
Phase I:
Deionized water 74.280 75.720
Phase II:
Petrolatum 11.850 11.850
Peanut Oil 5.450 5.450
Methylparaben 0.150 0.150
Silicone 200 Fluid, 350 cps
0.650 0.650
Propylparaben 0.100 0.100
Glycerylstearate 2.600 2.600
Lanolin AAA 0.650 0.650
Cetyl alcohol 1.950 1.950
Stearic acid XXX 0.250 0.250
Lipocol C-20 0.180 0.180
Phase III:
Fragrance 0.200 0.200
1,3 Dimethylol-5,5-dimethyl
0.250 0.250
hydantoin
Phase IV:
Aluminum chloride hexahydrate
0.600 --
Deionized water 0.600 --
Phase V:
Sodium hydroxide (50% in water)
0.240 --
100.000 100.000
pH 4.00 6.60
______________________________________
A tress of naturally blonde human hair (De Meo Brothers, New York), about 6
inches long and 2 grams in weight, is treated with Emulsion A by Rinse-on
Method B with hard water. The treated tress is then treated with osmic
acid using the method described by H. T. Spoor in Amer. Pract. D.T.,
11:497-505 (1960) incorporated herein by reference. A pronounced black
stain develops on the hair. On the other hand when a second tress is
similarly treated with Emulsion B, no stain develops showing that no
oil-containing film deposits.
EXAMPLE 6
The Effect of Rinse-on Conditioning of Various Concentrations of Aluminum
Chloride
This example shows the conditioning effects produced by varying
concentrations from 0.05 to about 6 weight percent aluminum chloride
hexahydrate at pH values of 3.3.+-.0.5. The components of each of the
following emulsions follow.
______________________________________
Weight Percent in Emulsion Base
A B C D E F
______________________________________
Phase I
Deionized water to 100 g
q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Phase II
Cosmetic emulsion base
23.58 23.58 23.58
23.58
23.58
23.58
of Example 2, phase II
Phase III
Cosmetic emulsion base
0.45 0.45 0.45
0.45
0.45
0.45
of Example 2, phase III
Phase IV
Aluminum chloride
6.0 3.0 1.0 0.5 0.10 .005
hexahydrate
Water 6.0 3.0 1.0 0.5 0.10 .005
Phase V
Sodium hydroxide
q.s. q.s q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
(50% in water)
pH 2.81 3.80 3.80
3.83
3.80
3.75
Rinse-on Conditioning .sup.(a)
by Method A n.d. d. d. d. d. n.d.
Method B n.d. d. d. d. d. d.
______________________________________
.sup.(a) tested on skin of hands; d. = discernible to touch and n.d. = no
discernible.
The data show that the aluminum chloride effectively produces rinse-on
conditioning effects at concentrations of from 0.10 to 3.0 weight percent.
When the aluminum salt concentration drops below 0.1 weight percent,
rinse-on conditioning is discernible only if tap water and soap is used
(Method B).
EXAMPLE 7
The Effect of pH on Rinse-on Conditioning at Various Concentrations of an
Aluminum-Zirconium Salt Complex
This example shows the conditioning effects produced by varying
concentrations of a glycine coordination complex of aluminum zirconium
tetrachlorohydrate sold under the trademark, Rezal 36G by Reheis Chemical
Company, over a pH range of from about 4 to neutral. The components of
each of the following emulsions follo | | |
