An improved rearranging composition and permanent waving process is disclosed. The improved waving process produces hair that is characterized as thicker, more full bodied with improved humectant properties and requiring significantly less maintenance than is typically required when conventional waving processes are used. The waving process is a step by step procedure involving the addition of a rearranger, a wrapping lotion, and a neutralizer, in combination with intermittent rinsing. The improved quality and settability of the hair is believed to be attributable to the improved rearranging composition. The rearranging composition comprises a homogeneous mixture of a salt of thioglycolic acid and a homopolymer of methylacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (MAPTAC). A preferred rearranging composition includes a weight ratio of ammonium thioglycolate to monoethanolamine thioglycolate of from about 4:6 to about 7:3 and between about 1.0 to about 3.0% by weight of a cationic homopolymer of MAPTAC. The rearranging composition should also be pH adjusted to between about 3.0 to about 10.5.
The present invention provides a process by which smoothness, body and a permanent wave pattern can be imparted to multi-textured hair of all types, from hair having an excessively tightly curled appearance, such as Negroid hair, to hair having a straight appearance, such as Caucasian hair, with substantially less damage to the hair. The process of the present invention uniquely combines the use of two hair structure altering chemicals--an alkaline hydroxide (such as sodium hydroxide) and a thioglycolate reducing agent (preferably ammonium thioglycolate)--to harmoniously bring about a desired wave pattern in the hair. Using the Wave Balance Scale (a hair reference scale) of the present invention, a sodium hydroxide formulation is chosen based on the type and natural curl level of the hair. The sodium hydroxide formulation is applied to the hair for a time sufficient to relax the natural curl in the hair by breaking some of the sulfide bonds in the hair. Then, after rinsing but prior to any neutralization, the ammonium thioglycolate formulation is applied to the hair and the hair is placed on curling rods for a time sufficient to rearrange the wave pattern of the relaxed hair. The hair is then rinsed and neutralized, while still rodded, for a time sufficient to lock in the new wave pattern by reforming the sulfide bond linkages. After neutralization, the hair can be shampooed, conditioned and styled either curly or straight as desired by the patron.
The present invention is directed to a hair conditioning composition comprising as the active ingredient, a homopolymer of the formula. ##STR1## wherein R.sub.1 is hydrogen or methyl; R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 are independently lower alkyl; R.sub.4 is C.sub.2 -C.sub.25 alkyl or aryl group; n is 1-6; and X is lower alkyl sulfate or aryl sulfonate and to the use thereof for treating hair.
A hair relaxing composition used in high alkaline conditions comprising at lease one active hair relaxer ingredient, moisturizers, emollients, and emulsifier, with polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride included in the formula.
