The permanent shaping agent containing one or more hair keratin-reducing active substances is adjusted by means of stiffening additives to a consistency that is viscous to cream-like at room temperature with a viscosity of over 100 mPa.times.s. The stiffening additives are selected such that the permanent shaping agent, upon warming to a temperature with a temperature range between 25.degree. and 42.degree. C., undergoes a decided loss of viscosity of over 60% with respect to the initial viscosity, to a value under 50 mPa.times.s, i.e., becomes fluid within this temperature range. The permanent shaping agent of raised viscous or creamy consistency is applied to curled hair on curlers and then the viscosity of the permanent shaping agent is lowered, by elevating its temperature in situ, so that the liquified agent penetrates into the hair on the curlers.
Methods of permanent shaping and volumizing hair that are gentle and prevent overcurling are described. In one method using curlers to curl the hair, an alkaline permanent shaping composition having a pH of 7.6 to 11 and including a hair keratin-reducing substance is applied to the hair and allowed to act on the hair for 5 to 30 minutes at room temperature or for 2 to 20 minutes at an elevated temperature. Then the hair is optionally rinsed with water and subsequently with an acidic aqueous intermediate rinse, which has a pH of 2 to 6.5 and includes an aliphatic organic acid. Next the hair is wound onto curlers, after which the hair is allowed to rest for 30 minutes at room temperature or 20 minutes at an elevated temperature. After the resting period the hair is treated with an oxidant-based fixative, which can be a solution of hydrogen peroxide, and the curlers are removed. The hair is subsequently rinsed with water or washed with a shampoo to remove the fixative and combed into a hair style. For methods of uncurling hair the method is similar, but the step of winding on curlers is replaced by a step of combing the hair out and the acidic aqueous intermediate treating agent is in the form of a gel, cream or paste.
The present invention is deemed to change the very perming concepts and methods that have been used for decades. This new invention relates to the art of permanent waving of hair and reveals an innovative new perming system particularly for the professional salon industry and also for the retail home perm industry. The innovative techniques and concepts of perming with ultra gentle formulations and very short processing times will offer many great safety benefits for the salon clients, hairdressers, environment, and the perm industry. The new invention is primarily designed and focused on dramatically reducing the perming chemicals, the processing time, and the malodor associated with perming by 50 to 75% of the conventional perming products. Achieving a superior perm result using the mildest perm products and shortest processing time in the safest way with least damage to the hair is the highlight of this invention.
