The invention provides compositions for relaxing and conditioning keratinous fibers, particularly human hair. The compositions of the present invention have a high pH, i.e., a pH greater than 10, preferably, in the range of about 11 to about 14, more preferably about 12 to about 13.5, and include as a conditioning additive a cationic guar. Surprisingly, the cationic guar maintains stability, viscosity and activity over time in the highly alkaline pH of the inventive hair relaxer and conditioning compositions of the present invention. The relaxer compositions of the present invention afford beneficial effects to the user, such as softness and ease of wet combing, and cause less damage to hair following application and use. In addition, the conditioning relaxer compositions of the present invention remain on the hair and provide lasting conditioning and relaxing effects after one or more shampoos.

A two-package pretreatment and hair relaxer system comprising: a first package comprising a neutral pretreatment composition containing a polyampholyte terpolymer having a weight average molecular weight of from about 4 thousand to 4 million, of the formula: ##STR1## wherein said polyampholyte terpolymer is present in amounts sufficient to coat hair and prevent excessive brittleness and roughness to relaxed hair; and a second package containing calcium hydroxide in amounts sufficient to relax hair and a polyampholyte terpolymer having a weight average molecular weight of from about 4 thousand to 4 million, of the formula: ##STR2## in amounts sufficient to impart significant amounts of moisture, softness and sheen to relaxed hair.

The present invention provides a process by which smoothness, body and a permanent wave pattern can be imparted to multi-textured hair of all types, from hair having an excessively tightly curled appearance, such as Negroid hair, to hair having a straight appearance, such as Caucasian hair, with substantially less damage to the hair. The process of the present invention uniquely combines the use of two hair structure altering chemicals--an alkaline hydroxide (such as sodium hydroxide) and a thioglycolate reducing agent (preferably ammonium thioglycolate)--to harmoniously bring about a desired wave pattern in the hair. Using the Wave Balance Scale (a hair reference scale) of the present invention, a sodium hydroxide formulation is chosen based on the type and natural curl level of the hair. The sodium hydroxide formulation is applied to the hair for a time sufficient to relax the natural curl in the hair by breaking some of the sulfide bonds in the hair. Then, after rinsing but prior to any neutralization, the ammonium thioglycolate formulation is applied to the hair and the hair is placed on curling rods for a time sufficient to rearrange the wave pattern of the relaxed hair. The hair is then rinsed and neutralized, while still rodded, for a time sufficient to lock in the new wave pattern by reforming the sulfide bond linkages. After neutralization, the hair can be shampooed, conditioned and styled either curly or straight as desired by the patron.

An improved hair repair, styling, and straightening process wherein the optimal reaction point of the hair with the straightening solution is more accurately controlled and monitored. The hair straightening solution has a unique jell-like consistency to more completely and easily be rinsed from the hair. A unique pre-oxidizing set is applied to the hair by application of heat and compression while the hair remains in an elastic condition. The pre-oxidizing set provides the ability to make fine styling adjustments to the hair. A substantial improvement in straightening, styling, and repairing damaged hair is achieved.

This invention relates to a process for relaxing hair fibers that comprises applying to the hair fibers a lanthionizing composition that comprises a hydrogenated starch hydrolysate and/or a sugar. The present invention also provides a lanthionizing composition that comprises hydrogenated starch hydrolysate and/or a sugar which decreases the amount of damage that occurs to hair fibers during the lanthionization process.